It would be difficult to say which is the most beautiful stretch of the Raad ny Foillan, the coastal path around the Isle of Man, but the section from Port St Mary to the Sound is a strong contender
If you take this walk though, be aware that you may encounter a plethora of potentially very dangerous creatures, including giants, mermaids and fairies!
At the crossroads at the edge of Port St Mary is a very obvious large standing stone in a field. This is the Giant’s Quoiting Stone, a name which recalls how it came to be here. Two giants were up on Meayll Hill, the hill above Cregneash, competing to test their strength by seeing who could throw their rock the furthest. The winner’s rock landed here in the field where it remains today. The loser’s rock is also still standing, but inside a private garden elsewhere in the town.
Down by the picturesque harbour, you will find Lime Street. There are a number of strange ghostly tales associated with this area. Whether they are invisible crowds of people jostling and nudging walkers to the edge of the road, or a carriage and horses driving past in complete silence at midnight, many of the stories seem to be linked to death or funerals in some way.
Moving out along the shore, you pass by Lag y Voddey, thought to have once been the home of a moddey doo (black dog) – there’s more than just the one at Peel Castle!
Next you walk past the edge of the town to reach Perwick. This secluded and peaceful bay has a long association with the fairies. Rather than being pretty creatures with wings, Manx fairies are little people (or lil’ fellas) who co-habit our world and are likely to do harm to you just for mischief, if your paths happen to cross. Their fires can be seen burning here at night, yet there is never any trace of them in the morning. And people have come across them pulling in their boats in the early morning, only for them to vanish when approached.
This is hardly surprising though, because Perwick sits at the bottom of Glenchass, which is one of most renowned places in the Island for encounters with the lil’ fellas. Look out!
The fairies are also known to inhabit the Chasms further down the coast. These spectacular cracks in the ground are not the sort of place you would choose to descend into, especially as a group of lil’ fellas once threatened to eat a farmer as he climbed down trying to retrieve his fallen sheep.
The Chasms offer a spectacular view of the coastline for those brave enough to approach the edge, very carefully! There are many stories of strange experiences in the bay below, with a ghostly woman joining fishermen on their boats or strange lights which foretold of death. Most remarkable though are the number of mermaids that used to be seen here. They were often spotted at the foot of the stream further on around the bay, which the path passes over.
Next along the coast is Spanish Head, which is the home of a menacing sea monster. The creature obviously didn’t deter the Celtic God, Manannan, from settling in these waters though. When St Patrick arrived in Peel, Manannan fled, escaping in the form of three legs (like the Manx flag today) and sinking an island below the waves, where he lives to this day. Some even say they see him rise to the surface to regard his home of the Island once every seven years.
The next headland is Burroo Ned, which bears the remains of an Iron Age promontory fort. This was said to have been the home of the giant, Finn Mac Cooil, who is also well-known in Irish folklore. When challenged by an invading giant, Finn posed as his own baby son in its cot and showed off incredible feats of strength. Fearing the strength of such a baby’s father, the giant grew frightened and ran away.
From here it is just a short walk to the Sound Café, passing the creek of the three-horned beast who appreciates offerings of rum! The café itself is on the site of a farm where devils were once danced to the man who dared to play his fiddle on a Sunday. Beware!
These and many more stories from this area and the rest of the Isle of Man can be found in ‘A Guide to the Folklore Sites of the Isle of Man,’ available from all good Manx bookshops.
Please be aware that walking is always with its dangers. Please do so responsibly, at your own risk, and with enjoyment!
Written by James Franklin, Online & Educational Resources Officer at Culture Vannin, which promotes, supports and celebrates the unique culture of the Isle of Man. Culture Vannin
